Nestled on the southern tip of the city, the Afghan Church in Mumbai is one of the historical churches that offers a truly unique experience. With its stunning Gothic architecture, the church tells countless stories of honour and sacrifice, making it a site steeped in history and significance.
Officially known as St. John the Evangelist Church, this remarkable structure was built in memory of the soldiers who perished in the First Afghan War (1839–1842).
Last year, Sarah and I visited this iconic site, but we couldn’t cover it as the church was undergoing extensive restoration work. It was worth the wait—a whole year—to finally share its restored glory with you.
The Afghan Church stands tall in the quiet lanes of Navy Nagar, a little ahead of the bustling Colaba Causeway. This 165-year-old, Gothic marvel honours the soldiers who gave their lives in war. Its intricate details and serene interiors captivate every visitor. The church walls tell stories of valour and sacrifice making it one of the best historical churches in Mumbai to visit.
The church is located within the residential zone of the Western Naval Command, surrounded by old bungalows and tree-lined avenues. As the Garrison Church of Bombay, it became a popular venue for military weddings, earning the nickname ‘Bride’s Church’. If you are visiting the city visiting this church is one of the things to do in Mumbai.
Visitor Information for the Afghan Church in Mumbai
Location: The Afghan Church is located in Navy Nagar near the Colaba Causeway. It’s easily accessible from major landmarks like the Gateway of India and the Colaba Causeway Market.
Timings: The church is open to visitors daily from 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM. On Sundays, the church remains open from 7:30 AM to 7:30 PM. However, visiting the church early morning or late afternoon would help you avoid the crowds.
Best Time to Visit: Late afternoon on a weekday offers you a quieter experience to help you explore the architecture and war memorials in Mumbai.
History and Significance of the Afghan Church
The Afghan Church in Mumbai was built in 1858 to honour the British and Indian soldiers who died in the First Afghan War (1839-1842). The British government commissioned the church and required the steeple to be visible from the sea. It served as both a war memorial and a landmark for ships entering Mumbai.
The First Anglo-Afghan War was fought between the British Empire and the Emirate of Kabul from 1838-1842. The British exploited the succession dispute between Emir Dost Mohammad Khan and former King Shah Shujah to invade Afghanistan. The British reinstalled King Shah Shujah and Dost Mohammad Khan fled to Bukhara in 1839.
However, the Afghans resented the British presence and the rule of Shah Shuja. This led to the rapid growth of Resistance and the inevitable destruction of the British Army. By the end of the First Anglo-Afghan War in 1842, the British lost 40,000 soldiers. Many of the regiments chosen for the invasion of Afghanistan came from the Bengal and Bombay armies.
In 1882, the church added memorials to honour soldiers who died in the Second Afghan War (1878-1880). The memorial plaques still adorn the walls, keeping the memory of the fallen soldiers alive.
Today, the Afghan Church stands as a Grade-1 heritage structure. It symbolizes the sacrifices of war and the fusion of British colonial and Indian heritage. The church remains one of the top heritage sites in Mumbai, attracting visitors interested in the city’s colonial past.
Gothic Architecture of the Afghan Church in Mumbai
The Afghan Church in Mumbai is a stunning example of Gothic Revival architecture. Built in 1858, its design features pointed arches, intricate stonework, and large stained-glass windows. The church’s tall spire, visible from the sea, is a key element of its striking silhouette.
The church and its embellishments were conceived and executed by renowned architect Henry Conybeare. On the other hand, leading Gothic Revival architecture William Butterfield contributed the Afghan War Memorial mosaics, polychrome floor tiles, and choir stalls.
Inside, the church boasts beautiful stained-glass windows by the renowned English manufacturer, William Wailes. These 150-year-old windows, restored after years of exposure to Mumbai’s hot and humid climate, showcase vibrant colours and detailed craftsmanship.
The church’s altar wall, made of Porbandar limestone, features marble memorial plaques. The restoration team recognized it as a Medieval Gothic masterpiece, preserving its intricate details.
Another highlight of this church is its stunning mosaic wall, installed in 1882. In 1882, Rev (later Archdeacon) CFH Johnston decided to include memorials of those who died in the Second Afghan War of 1880-1882 inside the church. Today, one can see nine stone arches adorning the wall above the main entrance.
Each element of the church, from its wooden roof to its mosaic windows, reflects the grandeur of its design, making the Afghan Church one of the finest examples of colonial-era architecture in Mumbai.
Restoration of the Church: Preserving Its Legacy
Last year around Christmas time when I and Sarah went to Afghan Church in Mumbai it was under repairs. It was going to be one of the first churches that I was going to cover on my blog. We did manage to take a few pictures of the restoration work without bothering the workers.
The Afghan Church in Mumbai underwent a two-year restoration by the World Monuments Fund (WMF) India. To protect this historic monument, they partnered with the Church of North India (CNI) and the Indian Navy.
The World Monuments Fund India in partnership with Citi Bank India funded Rs. 14 crore (USD 1.68 million as per 2024 exchange rate) to restore the church. The funding was in collaboration with the Afghan Church’s Pastorate Committee & Custodian.
Architect Kirtida Unwalla and her team focused on preserving key features. They repaired the mosaic windows and restored the wooden roof, spires, altar, and pulpit.
The stained-glass windows, damaged by Mumbai’s climate, were carefully restored by expert Swati Chandgadkar. The team also tackled salt damage on the Porbandar limestone altar wall and pillars. A special technique removed the salts and preserved the stone.
Subtle lighting by Kanchan Puri now highlights the church’s Gothic Revival architecture, revealing its intricate beauty. The roof was restored to its original material including teak timber trusses on stone pilasters.
The regiment flags, carried during the Second Afghan War have also been restored and you can see them on the right wall of the main entrance. Eventually, immediate drainage around the building and the church’s extensive grounds will also be restored.
Our Visit and Personal Experience
This was not the first time that we were visiting the Afghan Church in Mumbai. However, the experience of visiting this church for exactly a year and seeing it restored was truly wonderful.
To make it even better, there was a Christmas special service happening where we met people of the Kuki tribe from Manipur. It was then that we found that the service was happening in various local languages like Mizo, Hmar, Simte, Psite, Vsiphei and Gangte. Sarah and I decided to stay around and capture the images without interrupting the ongoing service.
When Sarah and I visited the Afghan Church in Mumbai, the atmosphere felt calm and divine. Words fall short of capturing the serenity we experienced, but every moment spent in and around the church was truly special. These images, though beautiful, barely do justice to the profound sense of awe we felt when visiting the church in person.
Conclusion: Why You Should Visit the Afghan Church in Mumbai
The Afghan Church in Mumbai is a treasure trove of history and architecture. Its Gothic design captivates visitors at first glance. Each intricate detail tells a story of sacrifice and resilience. This church is not just a landmark but a tribute to heroes of the past. This is one of the best ways to celebrate Christmas in Mumbai and know about the city’s colonial past.
The serene ambience offers a perfect escape from Mumbai’s bustling pace. History enthusiasts and architecture lovers will find it a fascinating experience. The church’s towering spire and stained-glass windows are marvels that demand admiration.
If you’re exploring famous churches in Mumbai, the Afghan Church deserves a spot on your list. It stands as a symbol of honour, courage, and architectural brilliance. Plan your visit to witness one of the best historical sites in Mumbai. Dive into the legacy of a bygone era and take home unforgettable memories.
5 comments
Oh my goodness, Sharukh, this is a marvelous church. I love everything about it, including the wooden structural elements that are highlighted in your photos. The windows are beautiful. The restoration looks like it brought them back to when they were new. The doors and the views beyond the doors are wonderful. I can’t imagine seeing the entrance and not wanting to step inside. Once inside, I can’t imagine wanting to leave. Thank you for sharing this travel destination.
You aptly summed up our feelings, Dan. We had our doubts about leaving early and so we stayed a bit longer. However, we were on a schedule so had to move. As I was clicking the images, I thought of you because you’d love exploring and sitting in this church and feel its vibe, plus the military angle that this church offers. Thank you for visiting this post.
It’s a beautiful church, Sharukh! The stained glass windows are gorgeous.
It is indeed, Deborah. Thank you for visiting and commenting. Wishing you season greetings.
Gorgeous, gorgeous church! I love the older churches like this, with its rich history, amazing architecture and beautiful stained glass windows. Thank you for sharing the photos and story of how the church came about.