Calling Mumbai city, a financial hub is not a bad thing at all. I love that the city that I live in offers opportunities to millions that come here to fulfill their dreams and their aspirations. I spent a considerable chunk of my life in Grant Road among the local Parsi community. As a result, I was always munching on mawa cakes and bun maska that come from B Merwan Irani cafe a.k.a. B Merwan & Company.
The concept of Irani cafes today might be vanishing like the old single screen theatres out with the introduction of Starbucks and Café Coffee Day. However, it continues to cater the people of Mumbai with same spirit and enthusiasm until they completely dissolve from our memories.
Knowing B Merwan Irani Cafe
Established in 1914, B Merwan Irani cafe is one of the iconic places in Grant Road. It is located right outside the east side of the Grant Road railway station. The cafe completed 100 years in 2014 and it is still going good. The best part about it is that it instantly transports you in the pre-independence era. It has the old world charm to it. The overall decor, rustic chairs and tables and even the antique-style cutlery and cups and saucers make you feel nostalgic.
The cafe was founded by Boman Merwan and now his grandsons run the establishment. B Merwan Irani cafe is famous for its mawa cakes that sell quicker than you can imagine. On some days, the mawa cakes are sold out in an hour or less than that.
Cafes like the B Merwan Irani cafe are quite different from the typical Café Coffee Day and Starbucks. These modern high-end cafes usually cater to the youth and focus on sophistication. On the other hand, Irani cafes are like affordable meeting points and hangout places in Mumbai.
You come here to have quick conversations over a cup of tea, bread butter, and omlettes and take off. This is not your standard Starbucks where you turn on your laptop and hog for some free Wi-Fi for hours. You can continually hear the clattering of cups and saucers that might take you by surprise if you haven’t been to such places before.
History of Irani Cafes in Mumbai
Over 1300 years ago, Persian immigrants settled in India escaping religious atrocities from Arab invaders in Iran. These immigrants are now called as Parsis. However, many more Iranians migrated to India in the last 200 years or so. They were particularly from Yazd and Kerman provinces. These Iranians would invite and offer tea and snacks to the middle and low class workers. Eventually, this exchange of kindness turned into a local business.
Earlier, Bombay was more focused on what is today known as the South Mumbai. Fort still remains the business district of Mumbai and most offices would be located from Kala Ghoda area to Victoria Terminus area.
On the other hand, mill workers played an instrumental role in the development of Bombay as they captured areas like Dadar, Wadala, Sion, Parel and Mahalakshmi that lie at the heart of the city.
The intention of Irani cafes thus remains to serve the people and it was never really a business proposition that would think in terms of capital growth. Most of these Irani cafes charge you minimum cost for the tea and snacks they offer on the menu. Established in 1904, Kyani & Company is a decade older than B Merwan Irani cafe. It is also the oldest Irani cafe in Mumbai.
B Merwan Irani Cafe Experience
The experience at the B Merwan Irani cafe is quite similar to what you get at other Irani cafes. They still have maintained their classic decor and interiors so the moment you enter any Irani café in Mumbai you are transported 100 years back in time.
It has this colonial British era touch with high ceilings, wooden chairs, and wooden tables with marble tops. The walls are not painted; instead Irani cafes make use of glass on the walls that creates a feeling of larger space. The service is quick and hassle-free. You don’t get a menu card here. Instead like most Irani cafes they have a menu board that offers you basic information.
When you are at the B Merwan Irani cafe you also have to be accommodative. Here you don’t pick a table, you pick a seat. This means that three complete strangers can sit with you across the table if you’re alone. If you’re with a female partner or a family you can use the family room space. This space is right next to the kitchen. B Merwan Irani cafe has an open kitchen so you can literally see and hear everything happening in there.
The waiters here don’t have any uniform. You get a glass of water before you place your order. Your ordertaker is your waiter. So the quicker you place your order the quicker you can get your meal. If the item you order is not available, he will let you know. Most of the staff here has been working here for at least 2-3 decades or more.
Unlike most standard restaurants there are no bills or checks here. You let your ordertaker-cum-waiter know that you are done and he will tell you the total amount. You can walk to the counter and make the payment.
Conclusion
Today, the Irani café culture is dying out gradually as international brands venture into Indian market. However, there are a few that are still doing well as they have made certain changes to their menu and the way they offer service. There are many Parsi entrepreneurs that are coming up with new age options like Theobroma bakery.
Others that have stuck to their originality and classic ambience and food are loved for what they are, but they cannot match the competitive and unforgiving business market that is brought in by international brands.
22 comments
Your article brings back wonderful memories! Thank you.
Thank you Kanchi. The purpose of this blog post was to create a feel of nostalgia.
This is a wondeful portrayal of a lasting business in your city. It very much resonates with me as we have a similar place i New Orleans called Cafe Du Monde. French is the orevailing influence in New Orleans and this cafe was designed originally with that in mind. In all these many years, though their popularity has grown, they have never changed their simple method or style of serving strong Cafe Au Lait with deep fried nuggest of piwdery heaven called beignets. I love businesses that do not conform to the seeming demands of commercialism.
Thank you for your comments. Although, these Irani cafes never really get highlighted in a glittery world, but I can say that they have served almost four to five generations, considering that I am in the fifth generation category. Back then in that era it was all about the people and service so I wanted to put that concept forward to the people of India and even globally.
And you did so very well. I like the photos you took as well. They certainly do not portray a glittery world but it has a very ordinary feel and that appeals to me.
I had a similar post about small breakfast shops in the US. It’s so good to read these descriptions about places like this in other countries. My guess is that many will survive, at least I hope so. The big brands have to focus on costs, and quality will eventually suffer. The places you’ve described here should not be allowed to fall away. Thanks for sharing a slice of life from a distant land.
These cafes still attract large number of people here in Mumbai, but Indians are passionate about American products here, especially the younger lot so they choose Starbucks over this, they get this feel of sophistication and classy appeal that these cafes wont offer.
That’s sad. I’m not sophisticated but I seek out places like you describe in every city I visit. I don’t travel much outside the US but on a recent trip to England, a friend took me to a small private cafe. I had one if the best breakfast sandwiches ever.
These are really interesting observations and photos — thanks for highlighting something that isn’t mainstream for tourists. I hope there continues to be support for these cafes — maybe blog posts like yours will help with spreading the word. It’d be a shame if giant chains like Starbucks crowded them out.
Thank you Jaime. The cafe in the picture celebrated 100 years this year, but unfortunately they are closing down on March 31. I have visited this place for almost three decades now. In fact, my school was just right next to it, so I would come here for early morning breakfast and I would rush out as soon I hear my school bell at the start of the day.
That’s too bad it’s closing. Cafes like that one give a place its character.
What a wonderful post! I traveled to India as a young man, many more years ago than I care to remember, and is indeed one of the places I wish to return when I retire in a few years.
This is a beautifully written and nostalgic post, and the accompanying photographs compliment your account most vividly. Whilst i appreciate that times change and that society evolves and moves on, it is saddening that all to often it has to be at the expense of culture and heritage, and that the needs and wishes of local people are so often set aside for the needs of big business. Much the same is happening here in London; a number of local city markets are slowly being eroded and closed down as their valuable free-holds are bought up by the multinationals and property developers.
My compliments for a superbly written and illustrated piece…
Thank you for your comment. I am glad that you have been to India even though it was long time ago and that you would like to return. I know it might have faded out of your memory, but I am still curious to know where did you stayed in India during your visit.
Your description is excellent and it awakes a strong sense of nostalgia for valuable things now lost, maybe lost, about to be lost, or just missed. I have seen what happens when huge international brands invade a city. Recently, KFC opened in Nairobi, and there are already stories that McDonald’s is coming. The local restaurants and cafes like Steers, Wimpy, Galitos, Kenchic, etc are rapidly losing customers, and, with time, might close down for good. Thenceforth they will only be memories in our heads, after all these years of decent service. Most businesses these days target the youth, but, I think, the youth anywhere in the world love American products, with complete disregard to the old and the quaint. If it is American, it must be a good thing–this seems to be the preponderant thought amongst them. As the world shrinks and we all become closer and closer to one another, at least in distance, so many changes will take place and so much will be lost that I think it will totally useless to hold dearly an attachment to a property that is not under the direct influence of one–but even those directly controlled inevitably wither away as well. What lasts in this strange place, this world, whether our home or prison?
Thank you for your comment Peter. Well, change is inevitable so I cannot blame completely these multinationals. It also depends on the people that want better lifestyle and sophisticated places to hang around rather than sitting in a cafe that does not give importance to ambience and classy appeal.
I could live in their kitchens for their food and bakes ! Loved loved loved the post.
My mother used to cook some great Parsi food, I love visiting Irani cafes from time to time.
I have a Parsi aunt but she can barely cook . I visit Kayanis often.
Great. I love Kayani’ mawa cakes.
Quite agree these cafes have a sense of service and tradition over crass commerce 😉 Personally I love them!
I’m a Parsi so all this bun maska and pudding and custard is a part of my DNA. I love Starbucks, but at the same time these 100 year-old establishments are an integral part of our lives and seeing them go away due to fierce business competition makes me feel sad.
When we have friends coming to visit, places I take them are Irani restaurants, udipi in Matunga, the cheaper gomantak joints for fish… and if can swing with a friend with membership – a slice of history at the Yacht club. More recently I’ve added The Bombay Canteen to the list for its mix of being a ‘happening’ place that has newly inspired canteen khanna. 🙂