Scots’ Kirk: One of the Best Historical Churches in Mumbai

58

The ship was cheered, the harbour cleared,

Merrily did we drop

Below the kirk, below the hill,

Below the lighthouse top.

These evocative lines from The Rime of the Ancient Mariner might bring to mind a serene kirk overlooking a harbour. While there’s no lighthouse here, the Church of St. Andrew and St. Columba Scots’ Kirk in Mumbai stands as a hidden gem among the least-known churches in the city.

With its fascinating history, unique architecture, and deep cultural significance, this kirk is more than just a place of worship—it’s a chapter of Mumbai’s rich heritage. If you’re looking for lesser-known places to visit in Mumbai, this is one of the best Scottish churches in Mumbai you can’t miss.

Mumbai is home to many historic churches that reveal the city’s colonial past. While popular churches like Mount Mary Bandra attract crowds, others, such as Scots’ Kirk, remain hidden gems. These lesser-known historical churches in Mumbai deserve more recognition for their architectural and cultural significance.

I extend my heartfelt gratitude to the church authorities for their gracious support in making this blog possible. Special thanks to Bishop The Rt. Rev. Sudhakar Rao, Deacon Sanjay Waghmare, and Dr. D.P.N. Prasad, Chairman of the Kirk Sessions, for allowing me to capture the essence of this magnificent church through photographs and for sharing valuable insights about its history and significance.

Scots’ Kirk: A Historical Presbyterian Church in Mumbai

Scottish soldiers stationed in Mumbai established Scots’ Kirk in the early 19th century for Presbyterian worship.

St Andrew’s, the first Scottish church, was built in Kala Ghoda in 1815. St Columba’s followed in 1843 for local Presbyterians. In 1938, both churches merged as Scots’ Kirk to simplify administration.

St Columba’s features understated Gothic architecture, reflecting Presbyterian simplicity. While less prominent than St Andrew’s, it highlights Mumbai’s Scottish heritage.

Today, Scots’ Kirk serves the Presbyterian community with regular services in English and Malayalam, preserving its rich legacy.

The Architecture of Scots’ Kirk: St. Andrew’s and St. Columba’s

The architecture of Scots’ Kirk in Mumbai showcases two distinct yet complementary styles. This reflects the unique histories of St. Andrew’s and St. Columba’s churches.

St. Andrew’s, with its more prominent 200-year-old structure, embodies a classical colonial style. On the other hand, St. Columba’s, though simpler, carries the hallmarks of the Gothic Revival.

The latter’s understated design focuses on open seating and soaring arches. This feature is influenced by Presbyterian traditions, which emphasized simplicity over grandeur. Both churches feature stained glass windows that display Bible verses, with St. Columba’s maintaining a more minimalist interior.

Arabian shipbuilders crafted high wooden ceilings, adding space and serenity to these historic Mumbai churches.

Its Connection with the Arabian Shipbuilders

The history of Arabian shipbuilders is deeply intertwined with the construction of Scots’ Kirk in Mumbai. These skilled craftsmen were instrumental in creating the high wooden ceilings found in both St. Andrew’s and St. Columba’s churches.

Arabian artisans, known for their shipbuilding expertise, contributed to the churches’ design. They created expansive, open spaces with soaring ceilings that exude grandeur while maintaining simplicity.

The connection between Arabian shipbuilders and the Scottish legacy in Mumbai extends to other historical sites. For instance the flagpole at Bombay Scottish School is made from a ship’s mast.

This link between the Arabian shipbuilding community and the Scottish presence in Mumbai highlights an important chapter in the city’s colonial history. Scots’ Kirk stands as a lasting testament to this cross-cultural collaboration.

Its Connection to Scottish Soldiers in Mumbai

The Scots’ Kirk in Mumbai traces its roots to Scottish soldiers of the British Army stationed in the city. In the early 19th century, these soldiers from the Scottish Regiment sought a dedicated place for Sunday worship.

Initially, the East India Company allowed them to hold services at the old courthouse near Lion Gate in Kala Ghoda. As the congregation grew, a wealthy Parsi merchant, Homajee Bomajee, donated land for a new church. Construction of St Andrew’s Church began in 1815.

Named after St Andrew, Scotland’s patron saint, the church symbolized the deep cultural ties between the soldiers and their homeland. This connection remains central to Scots’ Kirk’s legacy, reflecting the Scottish community’s role in Mumbai’s colonial history. Visiting these churches is one of the ways to celebrate Christmas in Mumbai.

The Absence of the Belfry at Scots’ Kirk

One of the most striking features of St. Columba’s Church, part of the Scots’ Kirk in Mumbai, is its missing belfry—a detail that tells a fascinating story. In 1930, a bolt of lightning struck the church, bringing down the belfry and with it, the church’s bell.

The incident left St. Columba’s without its iconic belfry, marking a significant moment in the church’s history. The bell, which had once called the faithful to worship, was lost in the crash.

Despite this loss, the church continued its religious services, though for many years, the belfry remained absent. It wasn’t until recent years that the church was gifted a new bell, restoring some of the tradition and sound that had been silenced for decades. The absence of the belfry has become an integral part of the church’s legacy, symbolizing resilience and the passage of time.

The Homeless Street Children Project of Scots’ Kirk

While these two distinct churches may not rank among the most famous churches in Mumbai, they have made meaningful contributions to society in their own unique ways.

The Homeless Street Children Project of Scots’ Kirk began in 1975 under the name Operation Shidori. Initially, the program aimed to provide food to street dwellers during periods of drought and famine.

In 1995, the initiative expanded to introduce a non-formal education program known as The Pavement School. This program sought to provide basic education and motivate street children to enrol in formal schools.

With support from teachers, counsellors, and student volunteers from St. Xavier’s College and Cathedral and John Connon School, the program supplied essentials such as books, stationery, school uniforms, school bags, snacks, and nutritious meals—all free of charge. Additionally, associated NGOs facilitate regular medical checkups to these kids.

Over time, The Pavement School evolved into the Homeless Street Children Project, which now serves as the official outreach program of the church.

To know more about this initiative, visit: https://www.thehscp.org/

Scots’ Kirk in Mumbai – A Hidden Gem of Historical Significance

The Scots’ Kirk in Mumbai is a significant reminder of the city’s colonial past. It highlights the influence of the Scottish community. The church’s Gothic architecture and connection to the Scottish soldiers make it a key part of Mumbai’s history. The ties to Arabian shipbuilders and the legacy of St. Andrew enhance its cultural significance.

Although St. Columba’s Church is lesser known, it adds to the overall importance of the Scots’ Kirk in Mumbai. Today, this historical church serves the Presbyterian community. It remains a vital part of the Scottish heritage in Mumbai. As more people discover its legacy, the Scots’ Kirk will continue to be recognized as one of the best Scottish churches in Mumbai.